Naksansa - The Temple of Compassion.

The view of the sea

Hongrean-am: a special small temple into which a bird had entered. There is a secret cap on the floor, which, when opened, reveals the waves of the sea striking against the blue cliff again and again. The fresh sea air and the sound of the waves crashing refreshes the people inside.

A view of the pavilion on the cliffs - you can see the people walking the path below

Always colorful temple eaves

We concluded our "temple day" by visiting Naksansa, or Naksan Temple. Ara had pointed out Naksan to me several times on the bus, but Paul and I had never been up here. After walking a stretch along Naksan Beach (where several groups of folks were out enjoying the sand and the sun) and having an ice cream, we walked uphill to Naksan Temple.

Since she said it so beautifully, I have taken this from Third Mom's blog: Naksansa nestles into the side of Naksan Mountain not far from Sokcho, a small city on the east coast of Korea. It was founded in 671 CE by the Buddhist monk Ui-sang Daesa, who upon meditating near the cave in which the Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva was said to live, was told by the Bodhisattva to build the temple there. Today, Uisangdae Pavilion marks the spot where Uisang once meditated. Sunrise at Uisangdae is said to be one of the most beautiful sights in Korea, and many come there to enjoy it at the new year. They come, too, to honor the goddess of mercy, Gwaneum, who gazes out to sea from the highest point of Naksansa. The towering white stone statue, called Haesugwaneumsang, is the largest in Asia.

With many of its building clinging to the cliffs of the mountain, Naksansa almost floats between earth, sea, and sky. My memories are of an exquisitely beautiful landscape - lush forest, steep cliffs, and crystal blue sea. And they are of a place of opposites. The peaceful atmosphere, created by the beauty of the place and by the the monks who prayerfully walk the temple grounds, is punctuated by patroling armed soldiers, there because of Naksansa’s proximity to the North Korean border and the sea. And because of past fires and its present role in Korea's tourist industry, the new and modern mix with the old - a new teahouse sitting near Uisangdae, the gift kiosk sharing the top of the hill where the Haesugwaneumsang stands.

Sadly, much of Naksansa was again destroyed by fire on April 5, 2005, a fire so intense that it literally melted the temple’s great bell.

But much of it has been restored. Paul and I especially enjoyed entering the temple and viewing the seven main Bodhisattvas, which were huge and covered in gold. The temple was filled with statues of the Bodhisattva in various poses, each one different and carved in wood. (You can read more about Naksan and its origin here.) Many people entering the temple were there to pray, singing Buddhist Scriptures and reciting passages while using Buddhist prayer beads. There were lit candles inside and a very palpable air of awe, respect, and humility. Even though I knew it would be inappropriate since I was in a house of faith, I still wished that taking pictures was allowed--it was so ornate and interesting in there!